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I miss IKEA.

I’ve recently embarked on a quest to find the perfect coffee table. And when I say perfect, I mean an adequate coffee table that won’t require me to sell my right kidney to an Uzbek organ dealer to finance it. That sounds pretty simple, right? You’d be forgiven for thinking that. However perusing the furniture stores of Lebanon isn’t as straightforward an experience as you might envision.

Products fall into three broad categories. First off, you have the ridiculously unaffordable foreign brands. “Ooh, look, such a pretty desk lamp. Oh wait, it costs three months salary”. Secondly, you have the highly talented local designers, who’ve appropriated tradtional approaches to craft and who make coasters that cost more than my undergraduate education. The final and most prevalent category is the plethora of nauseating “galleries” selling faux Louis XVI armchairs and gold-plated dog bowls.

So it is with wistful melancholy, in a showroom that redefined my understanding of how many shades of grey the world has to offer, that my mind wandered to Neasden. “Not THE Neasden!” I hear you clamour. “You mean the Neasden where the UK’s first McDonald’s drive-thru opened its greasy doors in 1988?” That very one, ladies and gents. The streets of this fair neighbourhood are lined with semi-detached houses with boarded up windows, and burnt out 1993 Ford Fiestas sit idly in their drive-ways. It’s what I like to call “ASBO chic”.

But my nostalgia for this bastion of urban decay and suburban squalor isn’t tied to the golden arches or the rolled up copies of the News of the World in the dash of every Transit van…

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13 Types of Lebanese Facebook Profile Pictures

The Three Quarter Turn
This is the standard pose of the Lebanese fashionista. She has spent hours fine-tuning the exact angle that puts forward her every flattering feature. She puts up one of these pictures on a weekly basis, bringing her total tally of profile pictures to at least 137. There is an increase of activity during the summer months, when her tan means that less Photoshop expertise is required.

The Photoshopper
This type of person is a close relative of the TQTer. Saturation levels, contrast and brightness are all essential elements in getting the skin tone right. The person is most probably not a graphic designer (as they fall into one of the categories below) but has enlisted the help of a cousin who works at a web design agency to crop any undesirables out of the image and scratch away that pesky pimple on her right cheek.

The Bride/The Groom
We all know how everyone in Lebanon is obsessed with marriage. Obsessed with getting married, going to weddings or hating your best friend who got married before you. So wedding-related profile pictures deserve a whole field of academic study. They come in an array of variations. There’s the photo of the groomless bride, engulfed by half the annual production of flowers from Holland in her parents living room. There’s the solitary groom, who’s motivations for using a picture of himself without his bride, and looking quite dashing, can seem disquieting. There’s the picture of the happy couple. If they’re facing the camera and set against the backdrop of exploding fireworks, not so romantic. If they’re locked in an intense gaze into each others eyes, happy future ahead.

The Baby
In a concerted effort to show you that they’ve grown up faster than you, your friends from the Bride/Groom category, will move on to the Baby category within a year. They will post a picture of their little cherub, which will make you momentarily wonder if they have gone Benjamin Button on you. Some babies are as cute as teddy bears sliding down a rainbow, and some look like the love-child of Wayne Rooney and the Cookie Monster, but you’ll invariably comment: awww. Hayete. So cute.

The Childhood Photo…

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Buns of Meal: A Brief History of the Hamburger in Lebanon.

I’m not normally one for scathing restaurant reviews. Come to think of it, I’m not one for restaurant reviews of any kind. The truth is, contrarily to my approach to most things in life, I’m resolutely unadventurous when it comes to food. I stick to a few choice staples, I usually know what I like on a menu and I rarely stray for my exceedingly boring culinary path. It may come as a surprise to those who’ve seen me lumber around with my 110 kilos, but I’m just not that into food.

One thing I do enjoy, however, is a good hamburger. It’s a food item that is guaranteed to raise your floundering spirits. Such a simple construct yet so deeply satisfying. But I’m afraid my faith in the state of the Hamburger took a beating last week. Before I tell you why, let’s take a walk down memory lane and explore the history of the humble hamburger in Lebanon.

I remember when I first ventured over in the mid 90s as a Harry Potter spectacle-wearing buck-toothed teen, being enamoured by what seemed to me to be, two exotic places: Winners and Juicy Burger. Having come over from London, where I used to spend my pocket money on the soggy and questionable fare offered up by the twin bastions of the evil West, McDonald’s and Burger King, I was in awe of these burgers. They seemed to offer up an authenticity lacking in my post-cinema Big Mac at Whitley’s on Queensway. Their décor was kitsch, but the burgers were made with pride. I only enjoyed them a couple of times though, before these places saw their untimely end. But my friends who grew up in Lebanon think back to their Winners days with swelling hearts, and I’ve appropriated a smidgen of their nostalgia.

Then, one fateful day in 1998, Lebanon changed. Something irreversible happened. McDonald’s came to town. My classmates at the Lycce and I headed to Dora in a convoy of serveeces, with our minds racing through fantasies of Filet-O-Fish and Chicken Nugget 9-packs. We queued for hours, like Muscovites had after the fall of communism outside their first McDonalds, for a taste of the junk food we used to love back in Europe. All thoughts of mloukhie and shish barak were exorcised in the months that followed, as Friday afternoons became the sacred time where we drowned our week’s sorrows in a draft Coca-Cola, under the benevolent eye of a redheaded clown.

But soon McDonalds and Burger King stopped satisfying us…

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The Nomadic Wisdom of Taxi Drivers.

Beirut is a city of two million souls and what often feels like 16 million cars. Organized, reliable and clean public transport is virtually inexistent. We use our cars drive 15 minutes through dense traffic to a place we could have walked to in half the time. Everyday new combinations of swearwords are concocted by irate motorists, festering behind the wheels of their vehicles, their palms dampened, their brows collecting sweat above angry eyes. The ubiquitous car horn overshadows your in-car musical selection, and adds that crowning touch to the symphony of mayhem that are Lebanese roads.

Whilst in a rush hour traffic jam ten days ago, I got rear-ended by a distracted female driver. And it’s not as fun as it sounds. My car is in the shop for a few weeks, so I’m rediscovering the joys (or lack thereof) of making my way around Beirut using my wits and some crumpled thousand lira notes, which inevitably means a succession of taxis and serveeces.

The taxi driver anywhere in the world is an odd entity. Part driver, part psychiatrist, part friend, part annoyance. As a motorist in Lebanon, I’ve found them mainly to be an annoyance so far, with their frequent stops and blatant disregard for traffic regulations, where they exist. But now as a passenger, I’ve come to love these unsung heroes of the road.

As I was heading to work the other day, my cabbie surprised me by assaulting me with a plethora of obscure facts about global warming. He then elaborated on his entire political belief system, which he very accurately described as Northern European Social Democrat. After single-handedly finding a solution to Middle East peace, he’d managed to restore my faith in humanity in 10 stress-free minutes. He tried to refuse to take any money from me, since he’d enjoyed the conversation as much as I had. But I insisted, such good work couldn’t go unappreciated.

Later that same day I hailed the archetypal battered old Mercedes serveece. I’ve always believed Mercedes should use these cars as posters for the endurance of their vehicles. This particular Merc seemed to have about 10% of its original parts, and was held together mainly by wishful thinking rather than any sort of welding work. The driver started discussing the various types of surgeries he’d seen performed on the Reality Channel. After initially fearing this meant he was going to drive me down a dark alley and remove my spleen with a pocket knife, I realized he as just very proud of his intellectual curiosity. As was I.

This got me thinking about how many times taxi drivers have proven to be the highlight of my day…

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Nip/Tuck/Slice/Forget.

On Saturday afternoon, I decided to head out to a café alone to enjoy a bit of sunshine. I ordered a lemonade with crushed ice, since it’s still quite warm in Beirut, and settled in for a spot of people watching. The fact that I was sitting alone, not waiting for anyone and didn’t have a laptop with me, seemed to puzzle my waiter. He kept asking if anyone was joining me, and I kept saying no. I was tempted to tell him he needn’t feel too much pity, that I’ve got plenty of friends but occasionally enjoy a bit of time alone with my thoughts. But I decided against it for fear of blowing his mind and straining his seemingly limited IQ.

A quick glance at the café’s patrons revealed every Beirut cliché. From the bored housewives ignoring their kids whilst armies of Filipino maids struggled to contain the nascent wrath of the bevy of spoilt little brats to the wannabe Golden Boys, wearing hand-me-down suits on a Saturday, smoking a fat cigars jacked from daddy’s cabinet. It was fascinating to just sit there, ignoring the contents of every conversation and just watching the social interactions. Listening in on the conversations wouldn’t have added much to my understanding of this herd anyway, since their focus seems to be primarily on appearance.

Now, anyone who says they don’t care about appearances is a consummate liar. We all care, and it’s probably a good thing. As evolved social beings, we are programmed to infer a certain amount of information just by looking at our surroundings, which include the people around us. Over time, we make decisions over who is approachable, less so, threatening and so on. A lot of these assumptions will probably turn out to be erroneous, but it’s a practical social construct.

Most of us don’t head out into the world every morning looking quite the way we woke up. We wash our face; put on some form of clothing that we think reflects our mood or our obligations. I personally tend to lather a non-negligible amount of gel into my hair on a daily basis to live up to the visual stereotype of a sleazy Mediterranean. So, we all know that our appearance matters. For some it matters more than others, and for some it becomes a sickness.

Beyond the things we can manage through a new haircut or a funky pair of jeans, there are deeper changes to our appearance that require a bit more work. And just as I was thinking this, and explaining to my waiter’s colleague that I really truly wasn’t waiting for an imaginary friend, it hit me. About 50% of the people around me had had some form of plastic surgery.

It’s no secret that Lebanon has a love affair with the scalpel and Botox…

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Will You Save Aya?

I’m not usually one for heartfelt posts about serious subjects, but today is different.

We often get caught up in the machinations of daily life and lose sight of what’s really important. For example, that idiot who cut you off in traffic today has managed to ruin your whole week. But taking a step back can make us realize most of us have a lot to be thankful for.

I took that step back when I met Aya.

Aya is a 13 year-old girl who was born with a dying liver. She’s coped any way she could so far, but things are getting tough now and she needs a liver transplant urgently, she has less than five months to live.

I feel humbled to be involved with the campaign to raise the money Aya needs for the operation that will allow her to live the life every teenager deserves. A life with its ups and downs, but a healthy one with a bright future.

Some of you may have noticed a Facebook page called SAVE AYA showing up in your friends’ minifeeds in the last couple of weeks. If you haven’t joined the page yet, please do. Everyone is encouraged to upload their photos with messages of support for Aya. From what I gather, the effect the messages have been having on her is really quite something.

But beyond the messages of support, the real life-saving work happens over at http://www.saveaya.org. That’s where you can donate online through Bank Audi’s secure payment system and really make a difference in this little girl’s life.

The fundraising effort is an initiative of Hep Attitude Positive. So far they’ve raised around USD 10,000 dollars through the campaign. Which is great. But we all have a responsibility to get to that USD 50,000 mark, which is where we really make a difference.

Will you Save Aya?

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Albanian Gangsters, Darwin and Halloween.

So, I’m at Beirut airport on a Saturday afternoon waiting for my mother to arrive from Paris. As per my habitual organizational prowess, I’m about 45 minutes early and have plenty of time to look around and take in the sights and sounds. I decided I needed to buy a bottle of juice and a croissant to stock up on energy for the observational foray ahead. I hand the cashier the GDP of a small Caribbean nation, grab my sustenance and head over to the heart of the arrival area.

Compared with the arrival area at Heathrow, this place is supremely exotic. In England, most people have given up on picking up their relatives at the airport, because they’re too busy watching chubby siblings punch each other on X-Factor or ordering a skinny Latte at Costa. The only people who still make it to the arrival terminal are an army of South East Asian minicab drivers armed with signs bearing the misspelt names of customers who’ve probably just landed at another terminal. Or at Gatwick. But I digress, let’s get back to Beirut.

A cursory analysis of the area reveals a few types of people. First of all, we have the village people. And when I say village people, I literally mean the entire population of a medium sized village has showed up to welcome home one of their own. They show up with bouquets of flowers, balloons, musical instruments and sacrificial virgins. I fully expect to see a goat sacrificed on the tiles some day. Then there are the taxi drivers, who poke at their ears with the elongated pinkie nail and ask everyone non-Lebanese if they’re the person whose name they have on their sign. There are the unhappy couples, pot-bellied uni-browed macho-sexuals pawing ineffectually at their mobile phones flanked by women who seem to have fallen through the makeup and wardrobe section of a 1990s Ukrainian strip club.

Then there are the children, who seem to belong to no one. They run around untamed, bumping into the sparsely disseminated furniture and seem to defy Darwinian logic. But my favourite are the men who seem to be there for no reason whatsoever. They stroll aimlessly, their hands interlocked behind their backs. They cultivate a very particular look which I would describe as Albanian-human-trafficker-chic, replete with thick black leather jacket, wife beater vest, gold chain, hairy knuckles and a look that tells you they’ve stuffed a few people into the trunk of their car over the years.

As I was engaging in this afternoon anthropology, and admiring the various costumes people choose to wear when they head to their airport, I remembered that I had a Halloween party to go to on Sunday. Now, I have a dubious relationship with Halloween. As a child in London, I was the annoying kid who kept reminding everyone that it was an American holiday and that it had only reached our shores due to rampant commercialism and whatnot. I know what you’re thinking, I must have been a bundle of fun as a 10 year old. Sadly, or happily, I still cling to my hatred of Halloween and dressing up. Even though I must admit that, as I grew older, I enjoyed the fact that women usually took “Tonight is Halloween” to mean “Tonight I feel compelled to wear as little as is legally permissible in public”.

I hate the effort that goes into dressing up. Where do people find the time and the energy? And are they dressing up to hide who they are or show who they are? Is that guy in the sequin dress actually telling everyone that he wishes he could be Liza Minnelli all year round? Is that girl in the leather catsuit telling us she actually wishes she was a dominatrix rather than a junior auditor?

As for me, I’m usually the annoying guy who shows up without a costume and gets told off by everyone throughout the night. I might steal a wig or a pitchfork to blend in, but the result is usually quite pitiful. I also sometimes say things like: “I’ve come as a disgruntled unemployed banker” or “I’ve come as an existential void”. But this year, I’ve decided I’m going to give it a shot. I’ve decided that I could stick a black shoebox on my back and go as a fridge magnet. I might carry a coin in one hand and a hammer in the other and go as a quarter pounder. Maybe I’ll put a ball on my head and go as a lowercase “i”.

I have two friends in London who went to a party dressed as traumatised Chilean miners on Friday, which I thought was hilarious. But copying them would be derivative. My favourite idea so far is to go as a pile of dirty laundry. If you have any suggestions I can put together by tonight, your help is greatly appreciated. I don’t want to be booed this year.

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Va Va Voom.

Some of you may have noticed I wrote in article in L’Orient Le Jour last week. The article was pretty successful, it received about 100 “likes” on the newspapers page, about 50 on my own Facebook profile. And needless to say, the article was in French.

In the article I talk about the act of moving back to Lebanon, and what that’s meant for me over the past year. I also go into how it has allowed me to finally find a place for myself after decades abroad. And overall, according to a lot of my friends, I’m far less cynical in French. And most people didn’t mean that in a good way.

And that got me thinking about why I wrote it in French. Well, for starters, I was educated in French until I was 18, and haven’t written a word since, so I guess on some level I wanted to prove to myself that I could still make an intelligible argument in the language. On another level I was writing it for someone very specific, and I wanted her to read it in French. And also, I think my conclusion was rather soppy and cheesy. That doesn’t mean it wasn’t sincere, quite the contrary, it’s just not something I feel I can express in English and still take myself seriously.

Language is an odd thing. Being Lebanese, I often think in three separate languages, all three of which I’ve been immersed in since infancy. I think differently in each language and according to what I’m feeling. There are beautiful things I want to say to people sometimes, which I can only say in French. There are vituperative, cynical, acerbic things I want to say which trip off my tongue in English. Arabic surfaces predominately during altercations in traffic, and usually involves unspeakable acts being committed by people’s mothers.

Rest assured, I’m sticking to English for this blog.

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Le temps qui attend, le temps qui espère.

For the French-speakers out there, here’s something I wrote for l’Orient-Le Jour this week.

L’Orient Le Jour – Opinions – 26/10/2010

Par Nasri ATALLAH

Mon histoire est celle de millions de Libanais. Elle n’a rien d’unique, elle n’a rien de magique et elle n’a rien de particulier. Elle a, par contre, l’avantage de se trouver sur la page que vous lisez.

Je suis né, comme beaucoup d’entre vous, d’entre nous, dans l’exil. J’ai d’abord découvert le Liban à travers la nostalgie de mes parents. À travers leurs récits d’expatriés frustrés. J’ai découvert l’idée oubliée, il y a quelques décennies, d’un Liban idyllique. Je l’ai découvert à travers les affiches jaunies de l’Office du tourisme sur Piccadilly Circus, à Londres. Des images d’une place des Martyrs qui ne ressemblait déjà plus à elle-même. Ce Liban que je découvrais, je n’y ai mis les pieds qu’à mes 11 ans.

C’est à cet âge aussi que j’ai lu un livre publié chez Larousse, L’histoire illustrée du Liban. C’est à cet instant que j’ai compris que, loin des souvenirs du Saint-Georges et des stars des années 60, le Liban est un pays de guerre. Une terre de conflits. Cependant, j’ai toujours gardé en tête un autre Liban, celui de mes fantasmes d’enfant, un Liban que le conflit m’interdisait de découvrir.

Beaucoup de Libanais feraient bien de lire ce livre, dans un moment de calme, entre deux soirées arrosées. L’amnésie générale, détestable syndrome de l’après-guerre, m’effraie. Au lieu de soigner nos traumatismes à travers le dialogue, des monuments et une cohésion sociale, on les a soignés à la vodka, au consumérisme grotesque et à la chirurgie esthétique. Les Libanais continuent, aveuglément, de suivre les mêmes leaders qui peuplaient les bulletins du journal télévisé auquel je ne comprenais rien étant enfant, à Londres. Un même lexique répétitif de noms de familles qui auraient dû être oubliés en 2010.

Le mien de nom, je l’ai toujours apprécié parce qu’il est neutre. Il laisse les Libanais assoiffés de clichés identitaires, perplexes. Il n’indique aucune religion, aucune région. Et, justement, je n’ai ni religion ni région. À 11 ans, j’ai aussi appris à détester l’instrumentalisation de ces facteurs à des fins meurtrières. À me méfier du tribalisme et des sectes, qui m’ont empêché de vivre dans le pays de mes parents.

J’ai vécu vingt-trois longues années en Angleterre. J’ai vécu mon enfance et mes débuts dans la vie adulte en tant que britannique. J’ai regardé leurs dessins animés puis leurs documentaires à la BBC. J’ai hérité de leur cynisme, de leur amour du civisme omniprésent. Mais avec mon nom et mon faciès de barbu levantin, des limites s’imposaient à cette identité. J’habite le Liban depuis un an maintenant.

La transition a parfois été difficile. C’est un pays où le népotisme fait toujours loi, où personne ne sait attendre dans une queue au supermarché. C’est un pays où la taille du cadran d’une montre est plus importante que la taille de l’intellect. Mais c’est aussi un pays de chaleur humaine, un pays où il se passe des choses. C’est surtout un pays où je me sens chez moi. Malgré un gouffre de civisme parfois, malgré des expériences très différentes, je me reconnais dans les visages et dans les pensées de ceux qui m’entourent.

Malheureusement, à en croire les titres des journaux et la rhétorique ambiante, le Liban est au bord d’une nouvelle guerre. Je n’en ai jamais connu et j’ai toujours senti que cela ôtait une part de mon identité, en tant que Libanais. J’ai souvent honte de ne pas avoir partagé le grand traumatisme de mon pays. Mais j’ai bien peur d’en partager un bientôt. Et, honnêtement, c’est une part de mon identité dont je me passerais bien.

Faute de mémoire collective, faute d’une histoire commune, certains s’obstinent à la répéter. Mêmes acteurs locaux, régionaux et internationaux. Tous ont pris quelques années, certains ont pris du ventre, d’autres ont changé d’allégeance. Mais tous ne se lassent pas de piller et de manipuler notre pays. Ce petit pays qui, pendant vingt-trois ans, n’a existé que sous forme d’un drapeau sur un mur de ma chambre à Londres, qui n’a existé que comme un fantasme dans mon cœur d’expatrié. Un espoir d’appartenance dans l’esprit d’un Britannique qui savait qu’il venait d’autre part.

Cette année au Liban m’a permis de poursuivre une carrière que j’aime, elle m’a permis à redécouvrir le sens de l’amitié, de l’amour, de la famille. Le Liban m’a redonné les montagnes, les plages et les gens que j’imaginais sous les cieux pluvieux d’Europe. Le Liban m’a redonné une joie de vivre et un sourire que j’avais oubliés. Et je vous dis aujourd’hui, politiciens et autres manipulateurs et mafieux, vous ne nous entraînerez plus dans vos guerres. Fini les exils forcés, fini les diasporas. Je reste. Nous restons.

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Article in Trashed Magazine.

The folks over at Time Out Beirut have launched a new student publication, aptly named Trashed. They asked me to write an article to motivate young Lebanese kids to stay in the country. Click on the photo to read it, but be warned, most of my argument revolves around my chest hair/beard.

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